Jamaican Black Castor Oil for HEALTHY HAIR!
Castor oil is a vegetable oil obtained from castor seeds (Ricinus communis). It is a triglyceride - esters derived from glycerol and three fatty acids. Approximately 90% of the fatty acid content in castor oil is from ricinoleic acid. Ricinoleic acid (12-hydroxy-9-cis-octadecenoic acid) is an UNSATURATED omega-9 fatty acid that NATURALLY occurs in mature castor plant seeds. It’s also the only oil in nature with ricinoleic acid. Omega 9 fatty acids have a CONDITIONING and MOISTURISING effect on the scalp and the hair.
Jamaican black castor oil is developed by first roasting the bean, which results in a dark colour (and burnt smell) from the ash of the roasted castor beans. This is the method used in Jamaica. The ash found in Jamaican Black Castor Oil results in a higher pH product that is believed to have more clarifying properties. In fact, alkaline pH levels can help open cuticles.
1. Hair Loss... Hair growth can be impeded if the scalp is infected or if there is a scalp disorder present.
2. Split Ends... Omega 6 essential fatty acids, vitamin E, proteins and other nutrients can help particularly with the problem of split ends.
3. Hair Growth... Keeping the scalp clean and pathogen free with help keep hair follicles strong and therefore help improve the quality of the hair.
4. Thicker Hair... Omega 6 fatty acids present in castor oil keep the scalp moisturised and the hair looking healthy and fuller, giving the impression of thicker hair.
5. Seals in Moisture... It has the ability to seal moisture in the hair, combating the natural dryness of these hair types.
6. Hair Dandruff... Castor oil can be applied directly to dry areas prior to washing or shampooing the hair.
From all of us here at ESP, we wish you a happy new year, filled with great opportunities in 2018!
This year Essential Specialised Products are going BIG and we want YOU to share in the joy with us!
GlucoTain is an innovative range of sugar-based surfactants offering sensory benefits through individual foam structures – from fluffy to rich – and light to caring conditioning levels. It creates new possibilities for formulators to go the next step in developing innovative products and platforms based on sulfate-free, CAPB-free and betaine-free formulations for a wide range of applications.
In addition, it addresses the consumer’s desire for more natural and mild products with no compromise on cleansing properties. GlucoTain is suitable for hair care and skin care applications such as shampoo, shower liquid, soaps, facial cleansers or shaving foams. GlucoTain’s EO-free and sulfate-free ingredients are readily biodegradable products with a 94-95 % RCI (Renewable Carbon Index), a high content of non-tropical biomass, and a good ecotox profile.
GlucoTain® Care (N-Coco-acyl-N-methyl-glucamin Cocoyl Methyl Glucamide) is a mild surfactant with good hair and skin cleansing ability featuring a pleasant and gentle skin conditioning effect in products like e.g. cream showers & baths, caring liquid hand soaps and pampering facial cleansers. It especially suitable for sensitive, demanding and dry skin & hair.
Mildness - are amongst the mildest surfactants in the market. They are extremely mild to both skin proteins and skin lipids and are therefore very useful for formulations with mildness claims and for sensitive skin and fragile hair.
Compatibility - miscible with all types of surfactants (anionic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric). Shampoos, shower gels and liquid soaps with very good skin tolerability can be
produced by combining GlucoTain® Care with primary foamers like Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate. Formulations with GlucoTain® Care can be thickened with salt and all types of natural and synthetic polymers.
Foaming power - shows a pleasant, gentle and stable foam in formulations if used as a co-surfactant.
Sensory effects - In skin cleansing GlucoTain® Care shows a distinct conditioning effect in the dry state and can thus eliminate or reduce the necessity for cationic polymers or other refatting agents in rinse-off formulation. In shampoos, it reduces combing force in wet and dry state and generates soft and conditioned hair and can help to reduce or eliminate conditioner polymers and silicones.
A use level of 1 % -to 20 % (0.4 to 8 % active) is recommended.
At 2 % active level (5 % GlucoTain® Care) a distinct sensory effect on skin is observed.
GlucoTain® Plus (Capryloyl/Caproyl Methyl Glucamide (and) Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide) is a mild, preservative free surfactant with an excellent cleansing and wetting ability. When used as a surfactant it is especially suitable for formulations featuring light and abundant foam such as refreshing, vitalizing showers, hand washes, men’s shower products and 2-in-1 shower & hair products. It shows superior flash foam compared to other nonionic and amphoteric surfactants and is therefore especially suitable as primary surfactant in systems without anionic surfactant or sulfate free formulations with reduced anionic surfactant content. It can also be added as foam booster to standard formulations at levels of 0.5 % active and above. In presence of Silicone oils, it shows superior foam compared to standard systems based on Cocamidoproylbetaine. It is also an excellent non-EO solubilizer.
Mildness – amongst the mildest surfactants in the market. They are extremely mild to both skin proteins and skin lipids and are therefore very useful for formulations with mildness claims and for sensitive skin and fragile hair.
Compatibility - is miscible with all types of surfactants (anionic, non-ionic, cationic and amphoteric). Shampoos, shower gels and liquid soaps with very good skin tolerability can be produced by combining GlucoTain® Plus with primary foamers like Sodium Lauryl Sulfate, Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate or Sodium Cocoyl Methyl Taurate. Formulations with GlucoTain® Plus can be thickened with salt and all types of natural and synthetic polymers. GlucoTain® Plus is especially suitable for formulations with Sodium Lauryl Sulfate or Ammonium Lauryl Sulfate as primary surfactant, as it improves the cold cloud point of these formulations and at the same times improves foam.
Solublizing properties -is an excellent non-EO solubilizer. Especially for terpenoides and preservative actives it shows better results than other non-EO solubilizers.
A use level of 0.6 % to 6 % as solubilizer (0.3 to 3 % active) and performance enhancer is recommended. Foam boosting is achieved already with levels of 0.5 – 1.0 % active surfactant.
BASF recently withdrew two products - Luviquat Dimer 18 and Luvitol BD-10P Diol. ESP is happy to advise that Phoenix Chem Inc. has developed equivalent materials. Please see the product details below:
Luviquat Dimer 18
INCI: Hydroxypropyl Bisstearyldimonium Chloride) is a distearyl quaternary that gives SOFTER hair conditioning compared to typical monoquats while at the same time imparting noticeable reduction in static charge and fly-away. In addition to its use in hair conditioners at 1-2% (both leave-in and rinse-out), it finds application in conditioning shampoos, at 2-4%, mousses and waving lotions at similar use levels. It offers many ADVANTAGES including lower eye irritation than typical mono-quats and LEAVES NO BUILD UP!
Luvitol BD-10P Diol
(INCI: PPG-10 Butanediol) is a propoxylated alkyl diol available as a 100% active, CLEAR, water-white liquid.
It is EXTREMELY emollient and acts to REDUCE GREASINESS finding applications in skin creams and lotions, shaving preparations, sticks, roll-ons and sunscreen formulations. It is an EXCELLENT SOLVENT for sunscreen actives.
"We trust in nature to provide us with the best in beauty."
Look out for our next alternative post!
A MUTI-FUNCTIONAL ingredient, that ENDOWS the skin and hair with a silky texture sans the feel of an oily or greasy residue. When incorporated in personal care products, it seals in moisture and delivers critical macro-nutrients. Immediately perceivable benefits such as reduction in TEWL, intense moisturisation, and the sensorial experience as it assimilates with the skin transforming it into a LUXURIOUSLY soft, hydrated surface.
A SUPER FRUIT ingredient that can be used as a natural replacement for synthetic materials such as petrolatum and animal-derived materials, like lanolin. Capable of INCREASING MOISTURE levels on the skin while enhancing the skin’s barrier function to PROTECT against environmental stress.
Jarchem™ is a leader in the trend toward natural ingredients. They helped start the phenomenal use of Shea Butter products and have a complete line of Jarplex™ Shea products. Most notable is their Jarplex™ WD technology which allows you to add butters easily to water based systems.
Jarplex SB-WD is an all-natural, completely water-dispersible form of Shea Butter that is also compatible with surfactant-based systems.
Composed of the glycerides of vegetable fat extracted from the fruit of the Shea tree, Jarplex™ SB-WD contains a relatively high amount of unsaponifiable matter. It is processed to have extremely low odor and light color. It is a “patent-pending” versatile, all-natural, green ingredient.
Jarplex™ WD Water Dispersible Technology is a novel approach to dispersing natural butters. Up until now, natural butters could only be dispersed in water with stability by addition of surfactants to the system, ethoxylation of the butter, or proprietary, ultra high-shear processes. Jarchem has developed a method to create water dispersible natural butters which maintains the butter’s properties and is easy to use without the use of surfactants or ethoxylation! Alone in water at 10 – 25%, it produces a luxurious lotion.
- Body Washes
- Hair shampoos/conditioners
- Body butters, lotions, creams, ointments
- Sunscreen products
- Massage creams
- 100% Water Dispersible
- Derived from natural ingredients
- Emollient & Emulsifier (HLB 4.5 – 5.5)
- Rapid absorbing and non-greasy feel
- Effectively conditions hair
- Versatile in a wide arrange of personal care systems and formulations
- Cost efficient
Seasons are changing and so are we! Let’s celebrate!
ESP has gone through some significant changes and we are looking forward to sharing our new journey with our customers. Change is always inevitable and change is always good. We strive in customer service and high quality products. We always have our customers best interests at heart and only represent suppliers we feel share our ethical values and standards. SO as some will say, out with the old and in with the new!
ESP has started working with Jarchem, and innovative company based in the USA. We are excited to be able to promote their range of Shea Butter derivatives.
Jarchem™ is a leader in the trend toward natural ingredients. They helped start the phenomenal use of Shea Butter products and have a complete line of Jarplex™ and Jarxotic™ exotic butters, oils, and derivatives. Most notable is their Jarplex™ WD technology which allows you to add butters easily to water based systems.
They offer the highest quality and broadest selection of Shea Butter (Butyrospermum Parkii) and Shea Butter derivative products for all your application needs. Shea butter is an excellent emollient for personal care applications. Its unique combination of triglycerides and minor lipid components makes it an ideal choice for functional cosmetic products. Its rich content of bio-active triterpene esters, such as lupeol and amyrin cinnamates, provides beneficial effects including anti-irritancy, anti-inflammatory, and enhanced UV-B protection.
The derivatives offer, not only the wonderful attributes of Shea Butter, but other excellent benefits.
Consider trying Jarplex™ SB-OE -Shea Butter Octyldodecyl Esters.
This is a proprietary ingredient which is a nature-based, moisturizing ester with improved oxidative stability compared to shea butter alone.
It is light, fast-spreading and penetrating with a less waxy feel without being tacky. It is great in protective products, such as winter products, cold weather applications, as well as sun care products. In sunscreen applications, it adds shine, lubricity, and gives a lighter, less greasy feel. It is an excellent dispersant for both organic and inorganic sunscreen actives.
Jarplex™ SB60 - Shea Butter Powder. It is an excellent additive to provide moisturization and emolliency to both body powders and powdered make-ups. Thanks to its high loading of shea butter and quantity of unsaponifiable matter, Jarplex™ SB60 provides skin protection against the following:
It is ideal to use in sun care and cosmetic skin care products, both in cream and liquid emulsions. It gives great flexibility in maximizing shea loading and functional skin benefits, while providing a softer feel.
Jarplex™ SB60’s unique product form delivers ~80% shea butter, achieved through a sophisticated concentrated powder form technology that uses super-critical carbon dioxide to gently process the shea butter at low temperature and in the absence of oxygen in order to maintain the raw material’s natural qualities.
Jarplex™ SB60 is well-suited for use in a wide range of cosmetic and dermatological applications.
- Solid applications
- Powdered applications
- Fat sensitive formulations
- Dry blends
- Cream and liquid emulsions
ESP is a proudly South African distributor of cosmetic and personal care raw materials sourced from the various overseas principles. ESP currently represents Elementis, CRM, Setalg, Phoenix Chemical Inc, Bio-Botanica and Active Concepts. Together these companies supply products ranging from botanical blends, oils and butters through to high-tech conditioning and moisturising agents. Meadowfoam Seed Oil, and Abyssinian Oil are 2 of the company's flagship materials. We are also suppliers of spa and salon products – primarily Peel Off Face Masks and Body Wraps sourced from France. The ESP Team is well qualified to meet the needs of the industry and customers to ensure an outstanding business experience.